Enable debug logging for ODK-Central?

I would like to see what internals are going on in the server. How can I enable DEBUG logging for a docker-compose setup?

I'm sure this is answered elsewhere and is an ancient thread, but it came up first on Google for me.

In theory this should be possible with:

LOG_LEVEL: DEBUG

Ref: https://github.com/getodk/central-backend/blob/afa039773d4b07c5c0cac5afb149ddb9cf5bca13/test/e2e/util/logger.js#L2